Hi I'm Chris and I make knives.
In a previous video I showed you how I took
my bar stock and I machined it into a blade blank. And in today's video what
we're gonna do is machine the bevels. This will be a lot of interest to a lot
of knife makers out there. Hang tight, and I'll show you how I do it.
The Fallen Star - part 3
So I showed you in a previous video how I machine my blade blank, and from here you need to put on the bevels.
there's a few things that you can do to do that.
One would be to freehand grind this. The problem of grinding freehand is it's very hard to do.
It's an acquired skill. I don't recommend this if you're a maker who has
a day job, and you're making knives on the weekend Saturday fine go for it.
Learn to freehand. If you're in a position where you depend on knife sales
to feed your kids, and buy diapers... don't do it! Make a block jig. Grind with a jig.
I do use a block jig, and I will show you that in a future video.
Another thing that you can do is machine the bevels. And I do both, in today's video we're
showing how I've machined the bevels and I really like the results, but it doesn't
really make it any less work... in fact it probably makes it more work.
The trade-off is it's more symmetrical.
It's a more symmetrical blade you can't add
freehand grind as perfect as a CNC machine that's accurate to .0001inch
thousandths of an inch and that's what I pursue; I pursue precision, accuracy,
perfection!
So let's go into the machine I'll show you the enclosure where we
left off, and we'll machine the bevels.
*To the Enclosure*
So where we left off at, is we have just profiled out this on part.
Chamfered this part, and now we're going to machine the bevels. We're going to start that off
with a .188 end mill. We're going to come in here and we're going to climb cut it,
from tip to plunge
Now the problem with milling out the bevels this way, is it takes tremendous amount of time.
it's a few hours to do a few knives,
but it does make them perfect.
Another way that I've thought about doing this...
Which I actually haven't done it yet, is to turn the knife up on the edge like in the vise
And then have this end mill come in to the plunge and go down the knife.
and actually use the whole length of the cutter.
The way that I'm doing it
I'm just using a small portion of the radius down here and it's pretty hard on the end mills.
So one of the tools that I really want to buy in the future
is a Cutter Master so I can resharpen my end Mills, or maybe a Deckle SO
something like that and after this side roughs in I'll stop the machine and show
you what it looks like.
Just so you guys can see how I'm machining this... I'm going to show you real quick.
I come in at the false edge, at the tip and I work my way down the bevel and out the plunge.
Stepping down from the cheek, down to the cutting edge.
Now I went ahead and made this pocket.
To have room for the .375 to come in and machine the finishing bevels.
Which starts at the cutting edge, and it works its way up to the cheek that's why
I went ahead and machined out this pocket.
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I'm not a youtuber who makes knives. I am a knife maker trying to promote myself thru YouTube.
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So you can see what's happened is is the .188 has roughed them in.
stepping down .040 thousands at a time. They look just awful.
What's going to happen now, is this .375 is going to come in. Starting at the cutting edge and work
its way up finishing the bevels go to the cheek
straight in off the mill this is after we have done the finishing pass with the
.375 and they look just fantastic! a few nice things about machining the bevels
with the Haas Is the plunges are absolutely perfect, and
it has a very distinctive cheek it has a very nice cheek here we're going to come
in here and do some engraving and this would be perfectly flat so the knife
will always perfectly Center not to encourage you guys to pry with your
knives remember they're cutting tools not prying tools but it's
very thick at the tip it's about .040 so it makes for a very very strong tip
and so what were gonna do now is we're going to take em up turn them over and machine the backside.
The time to do this half was two and a half hours.
this is why most guys don't machine their bevels it just takes too long but the result is
they're perfect smooth. they won't cut you.
it's just outstanding
and there's the backside it's flat before we put this back in the machine
we're going to go ahead and durr all this just to make sure there's no
anything that will not make hold it flat
welcome back to the workbench
this is a thousand grit Waterstone. Very quickly I'm just gonna make sure that
it's flat.
just using a pencil number two
this is a diamond it's basically a two hundred grit stone this is how I keep my water stones flat and flatten this real
quick and you just want to keep rubbing the stone on this until you get all of
the graphite from the pencil off and then you know it's flat.
Ideally you want to do this under water okay so I flattened this stone it's now flat to within
.005 I am now going to take my part from the machine and make sure there's
nothing here holding me up at all very quickly all were doing is deburring the part
sorry i keep hitting the camera it's in my way.
what I'm looking for is right in here sometimes there's a burr and all around the perimeter we want to make
sure there's no any kind of burr sticking up give us a false reading if
you have a bigger stone you can do a figure eight I have a lot of water
stones I used to use them for sharpening now I
use wicked edged cardboard sharpening wheels I've tried many many things over
the years and now I have a system I'll show that in a future video how I
sharpen my knives but I have a lot of water stones and so on the backside what
will happen is this pocket will be made first that's to give the .375 room to do the bevels
and then it should come in and chamfer everything and then we'll go
from there now we'll check it on the surface plate
so I just hit these on the on the water stone. And you can see that it took off some material it shouldn't be a
much of anything and then what we're doing is we're looking to make sure that
this is flat we don't want the feeler gauge to come down underneath the part
anywhere that there's the metal and so we're good
I'll even I'll check this with the .001 thousands.
Again the part's flat.
sometimes when you machine these if
there's stress in the metal, if I didn't stress relieve these first, The metal may
slightly bow as your machine one side and at that time you have to go back
into the kiln and heat it to 1,200 degrees for hold it for two hours in
order to stress relieve it but in this case our part is flat we won't have to
stress relieve it
these are just a 5/32 stop pins I'm now going to use them to locate where the
knife goes back into the jig this will ensure that the knife is not clocked if
you by having to stop this then it ensures that it's not clocked
so what we're going to do here... is going to check it real quick
we're going to make sure that the part is in fact flat with the .004 feeler gauge.
We are good to go.
what we're going to do now is we're going to chamfer the pivot.
you can see we have now chamfered the pivot.
Now we'll take off these clamps
and put the hold down screws through the pivot hole.
Te blade is located properly as I tighten down this ten by twenty four screw through the
pivot I do have a washer on the end checking to make sure that this is flat
I'll let you guys in on a little secret this is my top secret magnet technique
to get out to the stop pins
*laughing*
I'm kidding... I use a pair of channellocks.
sometimes it works...
Usually not...
WALAH...I told you it'd work.
Sometimes it will work, but usually it doesn't.
When I machined that the blind hole here for the stop pin, I made a mistake.
I made it a little bit too deep, so if I'm not careful they'll flush off at the top of my part.
And have a real hard time getting it back out.
When you make your jig don't you make that mistake and you'd be good to go.
And you know not every knife maker makes knives like this. Some guys do the hidden stop pin. going to do to stop again I think to
But I think two stop pins in the knife is unnecessary
So what's just happened; is I just milled out my pockets. These pockets is to give initial room for the bevels.
We do a quick tool check break and now we're going to spot the holes for the thumb
stud so what the machine is doing now it's chamfering the back side of the knife
I'm just using a drill mill it's a chamfer mill to do that this tool can be
used for both spotting and also for the chamfering of holes. that saves you a place in the carousel.
You just use one tool for both.
we are now chamfering the part
so right now it's coming in and it's it's putting this chamfer around the around the blade
were now drilling the holes for the thumb stud this is a .093 drill bit.
and if you don't know, that .093 is a pass-through for a 2 by 56
so what the machine just did it just just milled this pocket right here
In this pocket is where the thumb stud sets into
that way well as you apply lateral forces
is taken up by the blade and the thumb stud and not so much on a tiny little 2-56 screw.
So here's my blade blank this has been machined the bevels are
now put on here you can see they're on both sides of the knife and now the next
process is I'm going to work on removing these step overs, and to do that I'm
going to use a tool called the Foredom This is a jewelry making tool.
and I use this tool all the time to make my knives. We also have more processes I need a
surface grind this down to the final thickness. Cut this excess metal free.
Also I will come in here and engrave my name and then also the blade steel type
"USA" United States of America because I love this country we're coming up on
15 minutes I'm going to end this video here um thank you so very much for
spending your time with me and watching all the way through.
again my name is Christopher Gillian.
and I look forward to seeing you in the next video
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