USA news on Youtube Nov 24 2017

Ok I've got another 3D printer here.

I've also got a massive hole in the floor of the studio.

My foot went through some floorboards and I discovered there was wet rot.

But the show must go on.

Crinkled edge there.

I'm kinda preferring plastic at the moment especially compared to the wood which is prone

to fungus.

I'll put this back over here.

A few things have changed in the workshop...

I've had to get rid of a lot of things, and also lift things off the floor to make

space to treat the area and replace the floorboards.

It's couldn't have come at a worse time.

So this printer comes in two assembled parts and is a massive improvement to the Anet A8

– you fasten two larger machine screw through the base section into aluminium of the top

section, and then secure the machine screws on the side through the fitted brackets.

It's really simple.

The foot print isn't that much bigger than the Tevo Tarantula, but the bed size has increased.

Got to be careful not the drop anything into the excavation.

It is worth mentioning they have achieved this by pushing the linear guide block closer

together.

This will probably have an effect on the print speed and artefacting – as the metal bracket

that the heat bed fits onto isn't supported from the exterminates so it won't be as

rigid.

I did notice a simple metal belt tensioning bracket on the machine which I guess is useful

– but my anycubic i3 mega doesn't have one and that's my favourite printer so far.

It's nice to see the electronics in an enclosure, with a switch but it looks like the same old

stuff from the Anet A8 which I'm not really a fan off.

The PSU is earthed which is the main thing and everything seems fitted but with this

price range of machines I would always check.

The external wiring is very simple as everything is labelling, and you don't have to do any

soldering but the connections for the limit switches feel a bit flimsy.

They just push fit onto the prongs and are then covered by a little plastic to prevent

them shorting.

I'm guessing with the heat sensor, should probably put a little thermal paste or something

in there.

A lot of this is going to need to be cable tied down, just so you don't accidentally

pull something out.

At the moment you can buy the Anycubic i3 Mega with a 1kg spool of PLA for about 270

whie the E10 is being sold for 65 pounds les, but without the filament so it's more like

a £45 difference depending on where you get your filament from.

I would suggest just savings a little extra money and going for the Mega as I've been

printing stuff on that for well over a month now and it's actually really impressive.

Ok I'm going to turn it on... sounds like an error message.

I'm currently working designing and making a 3D printed rotary slit-scan cameras and

well you can see results in this video...

I don't think I could have done that with the Anet A8, or the Tevo, and I would have

got board of this printer pretty quickly.

Ok here goes.

Home!

It feels like the panel behind here is a bit far back.

It's actually rubbing on the chassis.

Wait I've just noticed you even get a ruler.

For obviously measuring the z on either side.

For the sake of a fair review, which I guess this is not.

You get two little packets of PLA and a manual which is rare.

They are evolving very quickly.

3D printed end cap for the extrusion is really nice.

The machine is easy to assemble and well I better print something just so I can say I've

used it.

Some people like to print a benchy, others like the test cube but I think I'm going

to print the most horrible thing I can find on thingiverse...

Antler Piggy!

Ok I should mention something annoying about

levelling this machine.

And that is the display quickly resets back to the start or home display after you've

clicked to move an axis.

It's really annoying - it just doesn't stay on the axis moving menu for long enough.

In the end I preheated the machine and turned the controller off and moved the bed around

by hand levelling each corner.

Also the nozzle takes a lot longer to heat up.

Mine plateaued at 207 C and stayed there for 15 minutes before I gave up and changed the

filament heating settings in repetiere host.

Even then I noticed temporarily covering the fan which cools the heating element sped up

the process - not how you should use the machine I think.

As with the Anet A8, because again these are many of the same components, you have to be

careful get the filament all the way into the heated nozzle.

My stepper was clicking...

and I ended up pulling the PTFE tubing out,

cutting a wedge into the end of the PLA and then physically push that down into the nozzle

before pressing the PTFE tubing back.

So I just used the same printer settings as I use with the AnyCubic i3 Mega but I reduced

the print speed to 40 mm/s for the Anet E10 – I've managed to get decent prints coming

out at 80mm/s with the Mega.

So to recap – if you are really on a budget and want larger bed capacity maybe go for

this one, but for a little extra, you get 1kg of filament, a filament sensor and a much

better print bed, and a much more rigid machine so I would still suggest the Anycubic i3 Mega

over this machine, anyday.

Anycubic i3 megaaaaa.

I'm going to make a top 10 blog post so as I get new machines or try new 3D printers

out I'll list them in order of preference and the link to that will be in the description.

It will probably change over time so take it with a pinch of salt and check back regularly

if you are interested in what I think of different machines.

Butt looks good.

For more infomation >> Anet E10 3D Printer (Transporter Accident) - Duration: 7:18.

-------------------------------------------

Anycubic Mega I3 3D Printer Filament Spool Holder and Prusa MK2S Filament Blob Repair - Duration: 6:57.

On this week's episode I convert my any cubic I three mega from this standalone

spool holder which I hate into one built into the machine to make it completely

portable and then I take on my Prusa mk2s that produced this blob and I'll show

you how I fixed it all on today's Filament Friday. Filament Friday is

brought to you every week by the generous donations of my patreon

supporters I found this snap-on filament holder

from user Kurioso on Thingiverse and I thought this is perfect for my i3. I loaded

in the main bracket which snaps to the frame of the mega i3 and it's a

decent design there's a few things I would change but the one thing I noticed

is that the bottom of this thing really curves and it threw me off at first I

just put it on the bed and printed it thinking it was flat and I got this the

bottom one it didn't even print it rolled up so I stopped it redid it I got

it to print and then it warped again so what I did is lower this whole thing a

couple of millimeters I grabbed it and just Z offset it down to millimeters and

all I did was cut the whole bottom off which really didn't matter for the

design but it made the whole thing flat and easier to print you can see a little

bit of it's sticking below the bed and that'll just get cut off. Those will

disappear once I slice this thing the settings that I used I use my anycubic

to print it and I use a 30% fill and I did generate supports because it's got

that arm that angled arm and I did a point three layer height three top and

bottom layers three perimeter shells temperature wise 40 degrees on the bed

extruder was 215 degrees C I'm using some black PLA speed 60 millimeters per

second so this should be a pretty easy print and I sliced it and once I did

that you can see the supports all across the angled bracket here the support and

then some on the corner or the rounded edge and then underneath you see it just

cut that extra off so now this thing's completely flat but I wanted to make

sure it was so I scrolled down the layers and saw that the first layer did

indeed put everything down flat so this thing should hold and stick

just the way I wanted and it said we take two hours and six minutes. Next I

had to bring in the actual spool holder which snaps into that bracket and for

this I just, it came in sideways so I said place surface on bed grab the bottom of

it and then placed it and then centered it on the bed itself this I wasn't gonna

do a whole lot different same settings 30% generate supports same layer height

point three same temperature settings so I just clicked prepare to print and to

put all the support material all the way around it including the little snap in

area this took longer three hours and seven minutes to print and here's the

bracket after it finished without warping this is the one that came out

good now that one with warping will probably still work but I wanted it

straight I wanted to look good so the support itself just kind of pulled right

off except for a little end here I had to kind of work and break that away but

it wasn't bad now this would have been eliminated if he would have just lowered

that angle bracket to the bottom it really didn't need to be up there but I

broke away the last bit on the curve and this thing was ready to snap into the

into the frame now it's hard to see here cuz it's black on black but it snapped

right in easily and it held really tight so the next step was to get the actual

spool holder in and the filament or the support just peeled away this was

actually fun to do it just peeled away and I had already taken the bottom off I

didn't film it and it snapped in nicely so then all I had to do is remove the

filament spool from the crappie holder which I was glad to get rid of slide it

under this guy and then just kind of make sure it cleared to the filament

sensor and I have plenty of gap underneath it so this thing worked out

perfect I love this design and now I can pick this whole thing up and the

filament spool comes with it no more separate filament holder and now onto

the Prusa I actually started a print I trusted the auto level it didn't stick

and this is what I came back to just a huge mess and I couldn't just use a heat

gun on this because a lot of the parts of the extruder are plastic so I would

melt that so I had to break this away very very carefully in the process I

wasn't careful enough because I broke the temp sensor you can see the

wire stuck here I just wasn't careful enough I actually ripped the sensor

apart there's the dangling wires and I ended up taking the whole block out

because I couldn't get the nozzle off it was so tight and I stripped a set screw

with a temperature sensor so I ended up replacing the whole thing and then I put

a new one on new temperature sensor and I even got that rubber sock on top of it

to help and you can see warpage in a little bit of plastic around it that's

from the heat gun from me trying to get this thing free so it was just a pain I

put everything together and it wouldn't work and then I found out I had broken

the height sensor the bottom of it should have a little black cap like you

see here that contains some electronics so it wasn't working I couldn't find a

sensor anywhere I had to go actually to Prusa and it wasn't on their site I

had to log in and contact him and then it showed up and then I was able to buy

it. This thing wasn't cheap I mean it was $10 for the sensor but it was like 23

dollars to ship it they did give it to me pretty quick and I was able to

install it and then I printed the frog sample print and everything looked

normal again so I was happy my prusa was back running and printing but I hope

this never happens again I don't want to go through that mess.

Getting the spool holder mounted on this guy has been fantastic I love it

I've been printing with it for a while it's completely portable that was the

one thing I didn't like about this printer having that separate spool

holder so now the electronics everything is contained I can move it around just

you know like both these guys I can move it around and do whatever I need to do

the plastic assembly for the extruder I never really

thought about it but that's kind of a pain that I can't use a heat gun so that

is a drawback to this but this thing prints amazing these have been two very

reliable printers for me and they're a decent size this one's like around 300

bucks this one's like $600 as a kit so it is a better printer as far as print

quality can do higher temperatures and things like that but there are

definitely features I like about this so either one is a winner in my book at

some point I'd like to do an i3 print off and you know is it worth the extra 300

bucks in some cases it definitely is maybe in some people's budget it isn't

but anyway that's done and this was a lot of fun I'm glad I could get this

done I've been really really busy and swamped but thanks for tuning in

if you want to help support the channel a dollar a month to patreon, subscribe

click on that CHEP logo and check out these videos popping up for other

opportunities to watch the channel so that's it for this week I hope you

enjoyed it I'll see you next time on Filament Friday