A friend of mine asked me if I could print some sea of thieves coins for a
kid's party. I don't know we're gonna try it on today's Filament Friday. Filament
Frida is brought to you every week by the generous donations of my patreon
supporters and they get special access to CHEPCCLUB.com so join us. The first
thing I do when I'm looking for something like this is go to
thingiverse.com and I search for sea of thieves. And there's only 7 items that
come up which was surprising but this is relatively new. Luckily there's a coin.
Check this out. Coin looks a lot like what I'm trying to do and it's by this
user A1 or E1 you figure it out but he did a great job it looks like. And
he's got just a picture that I've seen this on the internet but his STL file
which is the actual file of his design looked really good on top but I wanted
to see the bottom. So I clicked on thing view so I could 3D rotate this and when
I did I discovered it's a two-sided coin with the same image on both sides. So if
I print this flat I'm gonna have all those pits and ruts which is gonna be
difficult to print. Now I could print it on its side but I've never had good luck
with that so I think I might have to split this in half. The slicer I used to
convert the image into a for the 3D printer is simplifiy3D but I
haven't had great luck printing fine detail with simplify3D even with all
their settings. I found better luck with Cura. This is a free slicer version
3.2.1 there latest so I decided to use that. I loaded the coin into cura and here it is
on the bed and I realize it's too big this is gonna be too big for a little
kids hands. It says it's 72 millimeters in diameter so the first thing I need to
do is shrink this down and I also want to make it thicker more like a true gold
coin. So here's the dimensions that I can change so it's seventy two point zero
six. I'm gonna make it just 50 millimeters by 50 millimeters. That's
gonna be the new diameter. Now it's 2.9142 millimeters thick I'm
just gonna make that an even 5 millimeters. Then I'm gonna lower this
below the bed and I'll explain why in a minute. So here's the coin all resized. I
think this should be a good size for a kids hand
and nice and thick. So now I need to lower this below the bed because
anything below the bed won't 3D print. So I'm gonna lower it minus 2.5 so halfway.
If i zoom in here you should be able to see, yep there it is halfway, so anything
below the bed is not gonna print. So I'm gonna get a nice flat surface and it's
gonna be 2.5 millimeters tall. So now I want to duplicate it make a second one
and it should come out to the same, yep same thickness, same diameter. Now I need to lower this
one to -2.5 and then I'll have two halves that I can glue together so I'll click
on it make it minus 2.5 lower that one. So now I'm going to have two halves that
don't print and two halves a do print on top so I'm just gonna Center them here
and then I'll run through the settings. I'm gonna use a fine 0.1 setting and a
50% fill that's how much plastic will be filled into the print I want it nice and
solid. And then for temperature of the plastic I'm gonna use 205 degrees C I
know it works with this bronze or gold plastic that I'm using. 60 millimeters
per second for speed is way too fast I'm gonna lower that to 30 give it time to
really print a detail. Acceleration is way too high here so I'm gonna lower
this down to 200 and then travel acceleration I don't want this thing
jerking around doing a fine print so I'm gonna lower that to 2,000. That's just
experience working with my printer. And the rest of this looks pretty good the
only other thing I need to fix here it's gonna print a skirt by default I want
none this is nice and flat I don't need that. Then it's gonna print everything once
not individually and once I'm done playing with the settings this thing
automatically starts slicing. Slicing is where it converts it into the g-code that
the 3D printer understands, it converts it into a bunch of lines and X&Y
movements and then it tells me roughly how long it's gonna take and it's saying
it'll take 3 hours and 24 minutes. Now that's just an estimate
but bottom line is it's gonna take some time. Now I'm gonna change the name here
get rid of the extra CR stuff they put on the front I just want Sea of
Thieves. I'll save this to the SD card. Pop the SD card into my printer start the
print and walk away here's a quick time-lapse of it printing the two coins.
You can see it got dark I printed this at night so in the next morning here
were the coins. And I got to tell you they came out really nice look at the
edges nice and crisp on the skull the arrows look pointy and good there's not
a lot of stringing going on. It's not the best but it's pretty darn good for these
coins and the back of them nice and smooth because I cut those bottoms off.
So now I can glue these together I can put one facing one direction and another
face in the other direction and line them up and I will have a solid coin
which will be five millimeters thick because they're each 2.5 I will have a
line there but that's not a big deal and a nice size for a kid's hand. Now we're
to the final step gluing it together and make it a real coin. I like to use
superglue ultra gel it seems to work really well with this PLA plastic that
I'm using. I've done this before with other coins so I lined up the coins so
the skulls are both pointing in the upward direction the arrows should be
lining up so all I needed to do is line up the edges and push down. Once I did
that I let it dry for a couple hours and here's the coin. I got it lined up good
and both sides, its a two-sided coin, both sides look really good. I think the
kids will have a lot of fun with this. Next step I've probably got a print
about 50 more. If you liked this video maybe check out some of the other videos
that are popping up. If you want to help support the channel join us at CHEPCLUB
.com via patreon. And if nothing else click on that CHEP logo and subscribe
and don't miss an episode. That's it for this week I'll see you next time right
here at Filament Friday.
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