Hello everybody! welcome to my channel DronePhantiX, my name is Jon
and today I bring you something that I'm really happy of it
I'm really really excited!
and is...
my first build of a racing drone!
well...
this is a Robocat 270 mm with a little mods I made
to looks like this
The images you're looking at screen right now
are the original look the drone would have with the components that comes with the kit
before doing any mod.
But well...
with the mods that I make we get rid of this ugly third floor
that really personally I think that makes the drone look too high
and we get rid of this canopy that I didn't like a lot
and at least in this way we have the possibility to add the RunCam
and record the flights we're doing with it.
Why I precisely decided to buy this kit?
Ok, before you say anything, I want you to know that I'm aware of
at these days, looking how everything about drone's world has evolved... this kit is already like from JURASSIC
and... YES! at that period this drone was already flying free with the pterodactyls!
but really I don't care too much about because
I precisely decided to look for a kind of drone
that would be really simple to start from the beginning with
and I wanted to know how it feels like
to fly with the components that originally where released at the moment that all from this drone movement started.
So later on, when I get my hands on something more powerful and newer than this kit,
something trendier nowadays
can compare those feelings about
how it is to fly something old from this movement's roots
and see wich is the difference with the new gen components.
So I chosed this kit
firstable 'cause it's a 270 mm what means that
from a motor spindle to the opposite there's 270 milimetres (10'63 Inches)
and inside there's a whole bunch of space!
So we're not gonna have any problems with space for components at the build moment.
Another characteristic of choosing this kit is that
comes with all the esential components to fly with it
and the only thing we should do it's to place a FPV system
that would be the camera with a video transmitter
(that it's here in the back where the antenna rises)
and the transmitter receiver (with it's antennas here)
And that basically would be everything extra we'd need to buy to get ready our drone to fly
(logically apart from batteries)
Well last thing to say is that
I'm gonna show you this drone build with my mods
(that's what this video is about)
and that I'll let you all links of components that I'll be using in the description
so you can easily find in case that you're interested in any of it.
And now LAST, LAST, LAST thing to say! is that
You can follow me in social media (Facebook, Instagram and Twiiter)
to stay tunned what I'm doing on day by day inside this hobby.
So... Let's get started!
Ok! so here's my first NOOB KIT in this hobby!
As I told you, buying link to all components will be in description below.
Let's start watching what comes with the kit, that we can find for 90€ (110$ or 80£)
Kit comes with...
a carbon fiber frame to assemble,
screws and landing gear,
part of a third floor and a canopy (that we won't use),
4 ESC Simon K at 12 Amps
4 motors ReadyToSky 2204 at 2300 KV,
the CC3D F1 flight controller,
4 pairs of 5030 props
and a Sh*t Distribution Board (that we won't use 'cause it distributes Sh*t!)
As FPV kit we have...
a ReadyToSky video transmitter 600 mw
and a Foxeer New Arrow camera.
Apart... three 3S LiPos 1500 mAh at 40C discharge,
a FPV VR Googles EACHINE EV800
and a FLYSKY FS-i6 transmitter with it's correspondent FS-iA6B receiver.
Well... first thing to do its start working on the frame.
I'm gonna paint the edges 'cause
I personally think that's a way to make it look cooler and a bit agressive.
For it I'm gonna use these markers.
To all of you that don't know'em
these are POSCA markers (from all the life) and the box comes including a lot of colors.
I'll let you in description the buying link to these markers in cause you're interested, ok?
Firstable good thing of these markers is that it paints over all kind of surfaces
such as paper, wood, glass... whatever! that's one of the thing I like!
And second is that any color paints over another one
including white!, check out in the image how it paints over the other colors.
So I'm gonna use these orange tone
really it's a tone that I personally think that looks GREAT!
So for it, only thing you have to do is start painting in the edges
tracing little lines from front to back, ok?
Be patient and keep on slowly painting as I told you along the frame edges.
Once you've finished, make sure you've covered all surface with an uniform color,
making it look like this!
as you see... quite cool!
Well... once you finish the process just repeat it until you've finished all frame parts.
Once frame it's finished, it's time to start with motors
as I told you are a ReadyToSky 2204 at 2300 KV
and most important thing to be aware of it's that rotation direction goes opposite to nut tighting
and mounted in the drones goes this way!
Once we've identified rotation direction of each motor next thing it's screw'em into the frame arms.
Don't worry, all of them are the same, so there's no way to make it wrong.
Repeat the process until you've the 4 of them.
We'll mount the ESC like this,
for it, I sliced one of the landing legs ir order to use it as a soft mount
and I attached to the arm with a piece of thermo retractable.
Cut motor and ESC cables more or less at this length.
Peel'em off
but...
be patient and take care 'cause if we screw up in this part we take the risk to be short on cable lenght.
next tin all motors and ESC cables
and solder it together
order it's indifferent
later on, if we see motor spins in oposite direction that we want
we only have to desolder 2 of them and solder'em back with the oposite cable.
Repeat process until you've 4 of them.
And let's move to next component,
this plate! the one with 4 square centered holes
and some screws.
Let's get some small screws uncluded in the kit
along with some nuts in a sand clock shape
and let's go assembling each arm to this plate
leaving the arm's center hole free.
Repeat process until you've 4 of them.
And it's time for the flight controller!
Let's take the CC3D out of the box,
to do it just unscrew these 4 screws
and remove it gently from the box.
Assemble the box together again and save it for other projects.
And let's get these little screws and nuts.
Flip over your qwad.
and introduce one of the screws into these 4 holes
and tighten up together with the nut under.
Same with the other holes
and flip over the qwad again.
CC3D must go with this little arrow oriented to the front
but as long as I couldn't place it this way due to a FC pins and middle plate colliding together
I just rotate it in a way that USB stays oriented outside for an easy PC connection.
So for it I had to flash BetaFlight in CC3D and BLHeli into ESCs
as long as I couldn't find rotation option in LibrePilot
So! If anybody knows about this option should be GREAT that you leave a comment explaining it!
Anyway! if you want to see how to orientate it to the front
next to the end of the video I explain a way to do it without having that colliding problem.
I just took 4 of the same nuts as before and cutted the head
and these are the ones we'll use to attach the FC.
Recomendation Tip!: Use a small tweezers
to grab these nuts and place'em in place
before screwing 'cause they're so tiny that it's quite hard to do it.
Next we move along to this plate!
and we're gonna isolate with electrical tape
one of the back squared holes.
For it, we're gonna stick small pieces in the frame
making sure to fold'em in a way
that this side we're sticking the tape on stays completely isolated without any conductivity.
Repeat the process to complete all the hole around.
Once 4 sides are done
let's take a piece of Gorilla Tape,
I recommend you this kind of tape 'cause it sticks in a way that it's nearly impossible to unstick it,
and let's cover this concrete hole
that would be the bottom side of the plate, facing the FC.
I'll explain you in a bit why we're doing this.
Place the plate like so, beeing aware this little white square is on sight.
This is a MUCH BETTER Power Distribution Board (PDB)
it's a Matek Micro PDB
with an input for battery current, 4 ESC current output,
a 12V and a 5V regulated current output BEC (Battery Elimination Circuit)
and of course! buying link is the description below.
So, let's tin all PDB's pads
in a way that looks like so!
Back with the Qwad and middle plate aside
make sure ESC cables stays like this.
Let's take 4 of the long screws included in the kit
and introduce'em into each arm's middle hole.
We'll place the middle plate over these screws.
Now we're gonna use these metal spacers included in the kit
I just cut them off to reduce each one to a 2 cm lenght.
I recommend you that if you have a 2 cm M2 hex spacers
use those instead, but I didn't! so... let's screw'em to the qwad.
And next thing is to pass each ESC power cables through these 4 round holes.
Like so!
And now yes!, let's get our PDB and... WOW!
it really looks like was made for this concrete hole! awesome!
Really I strongly recommend you
to buy it, 'cause for the between 3 - 5€ (4 - 6 $ or 2 -4 £) that costs
it's not an excesive spend and it gonna improve your qwad MUCH more!
Ok!, let's cut and peel cables
in a way that stays at PDB's pads lenght
and let's tin the wires tip.
Now let's solder positive wire to a positive ESC current output pad of the PDB
and same with ground.
Same in the oposite side, positive wire to positive pad, ground wire to ground pad.
For the upper ESC I just made a wire extension
with a motor and ESCs wire leftovers we cutted before
to make sure that it's long enough to reach PDB's pad.
A bit of thermo retractable to isolate it.
Solder it in the same way as before, pos to pos, gnd to gnd.
I just attached'em to the frame with some zip ties to keep'em in place.
Now it's time to solder battery connector to these pads.
Originally with the kit came a T-plug connector, so I changed to a XT-60
So let's place here the connector and attach it with a zip tie.
(ER CABESA = BIG HEAD)
Solder POS wire to POS input pad and GND wire to GND pad
Like this!
Flip over Qwad
and we're gonna get the wires with another zip tie through that hole
and then another one vertically through both of them
Like so!
That's gonna ensure the connector in a way that won't move forward or backwards when we connect our battery, staying in place!
Next thing it's role the ESC signal wire around the arm's screws
and pass it through the holes all the way to the flight controller to connect it where correspond
Motor 1 to channel 1, M2 to channel 2, M3 to channel 3 & M4 to channel 4.
** Notice motor number changes depending wich software you're usig to config your qwad **
Repeat process with all ESC sig wires like so!
Power up your qwad with the battery and be aware there's anything frying due to a shor circuit. SMOKE STOPPER USE IS HIGHLY RECOMMENDED!!
OK! and NOW it's the moment to give that different touch to the robocat!
If you get into Thingiverse.com website...
... and search for robocat 270 term
you'll see there's a lot of 3D printing stuff for our drone model.
There's a lot! From new canopies
to motor protectors,
battery mount plates, etc...
But the one we're interested in is the before last one!
This one here!
It's called Robocat lowrider Mk1 ** THANKS Diymik by the way! **
And of course! If you're such a loser as me that still don't have a 3D printer
well... we always can order it and wait till it comes by mail..
I couldn't find exactly same motor protectors I had when I ordered the robocat
but well... we have these ones here that are even better,
using these ones you'll have already a soft mount for your motors DONE!
Well... after waiting a couple of weeks for the 3D parts... we do have this...
this little backpart here where VTX will be,
frontside canopy where the camera will be.
and motor protectors.
I just placed a LEDs & buzzer board into the backpart that I'll let it be ready to connect in the future
and made a little mod for wire soldering.
Let's grab the camera...
and put it into this place.
aligning holes of the camera with the ones in the canopy.
Let's screw the cam to the canopy using the ones included with the camera
and make sure you leave the camera degrees angle you'd like.
Like so!
and put it in place!
This is the video transmitter (VTX)
a ReadyToSky 48 Channel, 5.8 Ghz, 600 Mw.
So! Next thing to do it's get the camera cable and cut the wires next to the end.
Same with the VTX but next to the beggining,
leaving a couple of centimeters of difference.
Tin the wires tip!
Like so!
Same with the camera cable!
Let's take a long enough POS and GND wires
and let's solder VTX POS, CAM POS & this new POS wire together
a bit of thermo retractable to isolate.
And guess what!... Same with GNDs!
Liiike so!
And now... see that VTX POS
it's connected to CAM POS
and goes to another POS wire that will be connected to our 12V regulated PDB,
and... same with GNDs!
Let's take Video In (Vin) from VTX and Video Out (Vout) from camera and solder it together.
Same with the Audio wires (In this case white & green).
Once done, place a bit of thermo retractable to isolate,
get a bigger one
and slide it over all the knots.
Heat it up to leave it completely isolated!
We already have our FPV system cable finished!!
So! Time to solder it to a 12V regulated current output from our PDB
GND wire to GND pad & POSITIVE wire to POSITIVE pad.
Plug it into the cam port
and we're gonna introduce these two little leftover wires into this slot of the canopy
this is the On Screen Display (OSD) connector
so if we place it here, we can configure the OSD at anytime without having to tear appart any frame plate.
I had to open completely the upper hole of the backpart in order to fit the VTX antenna.
Now with a little stickable velcro pieces
let's stick one to VTX
& the other one into the bottom side of the upper plate.
Staying this way VTX fixed to the frame.
Time to do the same with the receiver!
stick velcro to it and to the bottom side of the plate wherever you want to place it!
Stick'em together and zip it in place!
Cut leftovers and make it sure it's totally fixed to the plate!
Insert antennas into these holes.
Place a zip tie next to it.
Like this!
Same in the other side.
Once done! Simply grabbing both together with a piece of thermo retractable
will stay like this!
Time to finish our PDB's isolation.
Stick a piece of Gorilla tape on top, that would give a little bit more of protection.
Time to connect receiver to FC via Pulse Width Modulation (PWM)
Checking the image, first 2 cables are powering wires
so from 3rd on we start counting channels, from 1 to 6.
Be aware that signal wires goes connected into the top row of receiver
and POS and GND doesn't matter into wich channel you plug'em
as long as POS wire is in the middle row and GND is in the bottom row connected .
And we're next to be finished!
Let's stick in the top side of the upper plate a piece of anti-slip rubber
as long as a piece of velcro on top of it.
Stick some velcro to the batteries too.
To be able to stick it like so and grab'em with a strap.
Let's connect the battery.
And with transmitter already binded to receiver
lets arm the drone and check motors are spinning!
Let's check rotation direction of each motor,
in case anyone spins in wrong direction
as I mencioned in the beginning, desolder 2 of them,
and solder'em inverted, one with each other again.
Ok! now to the ESC and motor joints,
we're gonna add a little thermo retractable piece to each one of it.
And fold it to the inside like so!
Slide arms thermo retractable over ESCs and joints
and heat'em up!
Time to place motor protectors
and grab'em with zip ties.
Get rid of leftovers.
and... our drone is ready!
After BetaFlight config, it's time for a flight test!
Go on!
Take INSTAFLIP!
This kind of things use to happen
either 'cause you've placed a prop in an incorrect spinning direction
or like it happened to me, incorrect ESC calibration with this result...
two of the ESC totally fryed up!
So! I solved it getting
these SimonK 30A
I raised up a little bit the amps 'cause it looked a bit short,
but these ones cannot be flashed so...
we'll config it on LibrePilot.
For it, we're gonna mod the CC3D
desoldering this pin rack here.
It's chinesse work... so be patient.
Everything goes out slowly.
Once pins are desoldered, take the rack off from the FC
to make it this clean!
Let's recycle rack and pins and tin the tops
add some little signal, pos and gnd wires
like so!
and add some thermo retractable.
Solder'em straight to the FC to get a RACK extension, like this!
So we can place it right now without any colliding problem!
finish the build...
To have the qwad completely finished in a SPECTACULAR look!
COOL build! haha!
I'm so happy with result! and waiting to go fly it!
So crazy about it!
So! till here today's video, hope you liked this peculiar way to build a robocat 270 in a different way.
And before leaving, would like you to comment what you think about this building
and well... maybe out there there's somebody who knows a better way to do it, or just want to share some special tips of drone building
so this way everybody can take advantage of it.
And well... If you liked the video, hit me with a BIG like,
you don't know how much you help me with that!
And for next video we'll see how to config this bug in LibrePilot,
so stay tunned! if you don't want to miss how to do it,
activating notification bell, to know when I upload a new vid!, ok?
So thank you very much for watching it!
and see each other next time! Bye bye!
No comments:
Post a Comment